Engine Oil Change
2013–2018 Ram 1500 - 5.7L V8 HEMI / EZH
Oil change on a 2016 Ram 1500 with the 5.7L HEMI. Twenty to forty-five minutes, depending on how cooperative the filter wants to be. This is a straightforward job—just watch out for the steering rack.
How Rough Is This Going to Be? Know what you're getting into.
You're draining 7 quarts of old oil, swapping the filter, and refilling with 7.0 quarts of SAE 5W-20. The HEMI's Multi-Displacement System is picky about oil weight—5W-20 only, or you'll get lifter tick and fault codes. The drain plug is a 13mm hex head torqued to 25 ft-lbs. Filter lives above the electric power steering rack, which is the gotcha.
Save Another Trip to the Parts Store Clips, seals, fluids, and the little stuff people forget.
A deflection funnel or cut-up plastic bottle under the filter. Without it, hot oil baptizes the EPS wiring harness and crossmember, and you'll spend the next week smelling burned oil every time you accelerate. Also: double-check that the old filter gasket actually came off with the old filter—it sticks sometimes. And clean up the oil pooled on top of the crossmember afterward, or every rainy day you'll think you've got a leak.
Here's Where It Gets Greasy The procedure, pain points, and common ways this job fights back.
Under-filling by a quart or two (you need all 7.0 quarts). Cranking the drain plug or filter down too hard—the oil pan threads are soft, and so is the filter housing. And skipping the oil life reset on the dash, which means you'll get a service reminder before the next actual service.
Procedure
-
1
Engine
Warm the engine slightly to operating temperature, park on level ground, engage parking brake, and shut engine off.
Avoid changing oil when engine is scalding hot to prevent severe burns.
Stock Ram 1500 trucks have ample ground clearance; jacking or ramps may not be necessary for standard-height trucks.
-
2
Oil Fill Neck / Dipstick
Remove the yellow engine oil fill cap and pull the dipstick slightly up to allow crankcase ventilation and faster draining.
Keep dirt and debris away from the open fill port.
-
3
Oil Pan Drain Plug
Position the drain pan under the rear-facing drain plug of the engine oil pan. Using a 13mm socket, loosen and remove the drain plug.
Oil will exit rapidly towards the rear; ensure drain pan is positioned to accommodate initial stream.
Maintain inward pressure on the bolt until the final threads are unseated to prevent oil splashing on fingers.
-
4
Oil Pan / Drain Plug
Allow oil to drain completely until it slows to a light drip. Inspect the drain plug threads and sealing gasket.
Replace the drain plug or crush washer if the integrated rubber ring is distorted or hardened.
-
5
Oil Pan Drain Plug
Reinstall the drain plug by hand to prevent cross-threading. Tighten with a torque wrench to 25 ft-lbs (34 N·m).
Do not over-torque; steel plug can strip the threads in the oil pan.
-
6
Oil Filter / Steering Rack
Locate the oil filter on the lower right (passenger) side of the engine block above the steering rack and front crossmember. Position a deflection funnel, cut plastic bottle, or gallon bag underneath the filter adapter to catch drainage.
Oil will spill onto the electric power steering (EPS) rack housing and wiring connectors if no deflection channel is used.
Sliding a 1-gallon zip-top bag up over the filter while unscrewing captures all runoff neatly.
-
7
Oil Filter
Unscrew the oil filter counterclockwise by hand or using an oil filter wrench. Lower the filter down carefully and empty into the drain pan.
Verify that the old rubber O-ring came off with the old filter and is not stuck to the engine mounting boss.
-
8
Oil Filter Adapter Mount
Wipe the filter mounting base clean with a clean rag. Apply a thin layer of clean fresh engine oil to the rubber O-ring of the new filter.
Lubricating the gasket ensures a proper seal and prevents binding or damage during tightening.
-
9
Oil Filter
Spin the new filter on clockwise by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting base, then tighten an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn by hand.
Do not use filter wrenches to over-tighten spin-on filters; hand tight is sufficient.
-
10
Crossmember / EPS Rack
Clean off any oil that spilled onto the electric steering rack, crossmember, or front differential using brake cleaner and shop towels.
Leaving residual oil will lead to lingering burning oil smell and false leak alarms.
-
11
Oil Filler Neck
Insert a funnel into the engine oil filler neck and pour in 7.0 US quarts (6.6 L) of SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 specification. Reinstall oil fill cap.
Do not use 5W-30 or other viscosities unless specified for non-MDS heavy duty fleet usage, as MDS performance can be compromised.
-
12
Instrument Cluster / Underside
Start the engine and run at idle for 1-2 minutes while inspecting the drain plug and oil filter for leaks. Confirm oil pressure light extinguishes.
If oil pressure does not register within 5 seconds, shut the engine off immediately and check filter installation and oil level.
-
13
Dipstick
Shut off engine, wait 5 minutes for oil to settle into the pan, pull dipstick, wipe clean, re-insert fully, and verify oil level is within the cross-hatched SAFE zone.
Ensure vehicle is sitting on a completely level surface when taking the final reading.
-
14
Instrument Cluster / EVIC
Reset the Oil Life Indicator: Turn ignition to ON/RUN (engine OFF). Navigate steering wheel cluster controls: Vehicle Info -> Oil Life -> press and hold OK/Right Arrow until reset to 100%. (Alternative method: Turn ignition to ON/RUN and fully depress accelerator pedal 3 times within 10 seconds, then turn ignition OFF).
Verify 100% oil life displays before cycling key off.
Gotchas
- The oil filter is situated directly above the electric power steering (EPS) rack and front crossmember. Removing the filter without a deflection chute or plastic bag will coat the EPS housing and wiring harness in hot oil, which can cause burning smells and deteriorate electrical seals.
- The 5.7L HEMI uses the Multi-Displacement System (MDS), which deactivates cylinders under light loads using oil-pressure-actuated solenoids and lifters. Using improper oil viscosity (such as heavier 10W-30 or 15W-40) can cause MDS malfunction, DTC codes, or lifter tick.
- Old oil filter O-ring gasket sticking to the engine block mounting pad ('double gasketing'). Always check that the black rubber gasket came off with the old filter before threading the new filter on.
Common mistakes
- Under-filling the engine by only adding 5 or 6 quarts instead of the required 7.0 quarts (6.6 L).
- Over-tightening the 13mm drain plug into the oil pan threads or over-tightening the oil filter with a tool rather than hand-tightening 3/4 to 1 turn past gasket contact.
- Failing to clean oil pooled on top of the crossmember channel after filter removal, resulting in recurring driveway drips that mimic an active engine oil leak.
It's a Good Idea To... Greasy tips and useful while-you're-in-there advice.
Slide a gallon zip-top bag up over the filter while you're unscrewing it. Catches all the runoff, no mess, no electrical smoke.
You Already Have a Screw Loose. Your Car Shouldn't. Final checks before you call it done.
Honest work. Park on level ground, engage the brake, let it warm up slightly, drain it, swap the filter with a deflector in place, refill with 7.0 quarts of 5W-20, check for leaks at idle, verify the dipstick, reset the oil life via the cluster menu or the three-pedal dance. You're done.