Engine Oil Change
2013–2014 Subaru Outback - 2.5L H4 / FB25
Oil change on a 2013–2014 Outback with the FB25 engine. Straightforward job—20 to 45 minutes depending on how easily the filter cooperates. The tricky part isn't the work; it's not accidentally draining the CVT instead.
How Rough Is This Going to Be? Know what you're getting into.
You'll warm the engine, drain 5.1 quarts of oil, swap the top-mounted filter, replace the crush washer on the drain plug, and refill with 0W-20 synthetic. The FB25 sits in a boxer layout with the drain plug tucked under the front splash shield—easy to find once you know where to look. The filter lives on top of the engine bay, passenger side, with an integrated catch cup. No lifting required unless you can't comfortably reach underneath; the Outback's 8.7 inches of ground clearance is usually enough.
Save Another Trip to the Parts Store Clips, seals, fluids, and the little stuff people forget.
Venting the oil filler cap and dipstick before you start draining—otherwise oil glug-glubs and splashes everywhere. Also: the new crush washer. Buy one (Subaru 803916010) ahead of time or you'll stare at the old one and convince yourself it's fine. It's not. And have a rag handy when you spin off the filter; there's always residual oil in the catch cup.
Here's Where It Gets Greasy The procedure, pain points, and common ways this job fights back.
The big one: don't drain the CVT transmission by mistake. The engine oil pan drain plug is at the front, accessible through the splash shield cutout. The CVT pan is further back, toward the center. Draining the wrong one and dumping 5 quarts into the engine will destroy the transmission. Also watch for the old oil filter gasket getting stuck to the mounting cup—double-gasketing will spray oil everywhere when you start it up. And don't overtighten the new filter; hand-tight plus 3/4 to 1 full turn. Use a wrench and you'll make the next person hate you.
Procedure
-
1
Engine
Warm the engine to normal operating temperature (coolant temp ~180°F/82°C), then turn off ignition and secure vehicle on level ground.
Hot engine oil and exhaust components can cause severe burns. Wear protective gloves and eye protection.
Warming the oil suspends contaminants and accelerates drainage.
-
2
Oil filler cap and dipstick
Open hood, remove the oil filler cap, and slightly unseat the dipstick to allow atmospheric venting during drainage.
Venting prevents oil glugging and splashing while draining.
-
3
Engine oil pan drain plug
Locate the engine oil drain plug through the cutout in the front plastic splash guard. Position the drain pan underneath.
CRITICAL: Do not remove the CVT transmission drain plug! The engine oil pan is located at the front, accessible through the splash shield cutout. The CVT pan sits further back toward the center of the vehicle.
Check that the pan is angled toward the front passenger side where the drain hole faces.
-
4
Drain plug bolt
Loosen the 14mm drain plug counterclockwise using a 14mm socket and ratchet, then carefully unthread it by hand and allow oil to drain completely.
Oil will drain quickly and may be hot.
Maintain slight inward pressure on the plug while unthreading the final threads to avoid dropping the bolt in the pan.
-
5
Engine oil filter
While oil is draining below, remove the top-mounted oil filter located on the front/top passenger side of the engine bay.
Ensure the rubber O-ring gasket came off with the old filter and is not stuck to the mounting base.
Turn the filter slowly counter-clockwise 1/2 turn to allow residual oil in the filter to drain into the integrated catch cup before lifting it out.
-
6
Oil filter mounting cup and new filter gasket
Clean the filter mounting base and drip tray cup with a clean rag. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to the rubber O-ring gasket of the new filter.
Never install an oil filter dry without lubricating the rubber seal.
-
7
New oil filter
Spin the new filter onto the threaded stud until the gasket contacts the mating surface, then tighten an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn by hand.
Do not overtighten with a wrench; overtightening distorts the gasket and causes leaks or makes future removal difficult.
-
8
Drain plug and crush washer
Clean the drain plug threads. Discard the old crush washer and install a new OEM crush washer (Subaru 803916010).
Do not reuse the old crush washer. Reused washers frequently develop slow oil leaks.
Install the washer with the flat smooth face against the bolt head and the rounded/crush face toward the oil pan.
-
9
Engine oil pan drain plug
Thread the drain plug into the oil pan by hand to avoid cross-threading, then torque to 31 ft-lb (41.7 N·m) with a calibrated torque wrench.
Do not over-torque; the oil pan threads can strip if over-tightened.
-
10
Engine oil fill neck
Insert a clean funnel into the engine oil fill neck and add 4.5 to 4.8 quarts of SAE 0W-20 synthetic oil.
Do not immediately dump the full 5.1 quarts to prevent accidental overfilling. Add 4.5-4.8 quarts first.
-
11
Engine / Lubrication system
Reinstall the oil filler cap securely, start the engine, and let it idle for 30–60 seconds while checking for leaks at the top-mount filter and underneath at the drain plug.
Ensure the oil pressure warning light extinguishes within 3–5 seconds of starting.
-
12
Engine oil dipstick
Shut off the engine, wait 3 to 5 minutes on level ground for oil to drain down into the pan, pull the dipstick, wipe clean, reinsert fully, and check level. Top off to the upper full hole/notch as needed.
Do not overfill past the top mark/notch.
Subaru boxer dipsticks often show different levels on the front vs rear face due to insertion angle. Always read the lowest continuous oil level mark on the stick.
Gotchas
- DRAINING THE CVT TRANSMISSION BY MISTAKE: The most frequent catastrophic mistake on 2013+ Outbacks is confusing the CVT transmission drain plug with the engine oil drain plug. The engine oil drain plug is located under the front engine splash shield cutout. The CVT drain plug is exposed further rearward. Draining the CVT and adding 5 quarts of oil to the engine will severely overfill the engine and destroy the dry transmission.
- DIPSTICK READING DISCREPANCY: The dipstick enters the FB25 boxer oil pan at an angle, causing oil to smear up one side of the stick. Always pull, wipe thoroughly, reinsert, pull again, and read the lower oil line on the two sides on level ground after letting the vehicle sit for 5 minutes.
- OIL CONSUMPTION SENSITIVITY: 2013 FB25 engines are well-documented for oil consumption issues (subject to OEM TSBs / piston ring service campaigns). Regularly checking oil levels between 3,000–6,000 mile intervals is mandatory.
Common mistakes
- Leaving the old oil filter gasket stuck to the top-mount filter housing cup, causing double-gasketing and high-pressure oil spraying when starting the engine.
- Reusing the 16mm crush washer or omitting it entirely, leading to seepage and stripped oil pan threads when overtightened to compensate.
- Pouring in 5.5+ quarts of oil at once without checking the dipstick, resulting in crankcase overfill.
It's a Good Idea To... Greasy tips and useful while-you're-in-there advice.
The dipstick on a boxer engine can lie to you because oil smears up one side of the stick at an angle. Pull it, wipe it clean, reinsert it all the way, pull it again, and read the lower line. Do this on level ground after letting the truck sit for 5 minutes. Also: pour in 4.5 to 4.8 quarts first, then check and top off. The factory spec is 5.1 quarts with a new filter, but overfilling is easier than you'd think.
You Already Have a Screw Loose. Your Car Shouldn't. Final checks before you call it done.
Straightforward job. Warm oil, drain it, swap the filter and crush washer, refill, check for leaks at idle, then verify the dipstick on level ground after 5 minutes. The FB25 is known for oil consumption, so check it regularly between services. You're done.